In 1879 Robert Tomlinson was tasked by the Church Missionary Society to establish a new mission in British Columbia’s northwest. From what was their mission at Kincolith they travelled by canoe and foot. Crossing rivers and mountains, much of it along the First Nation’s Grease Trail, they finally found a place that the First Nations had named Ankihtlast (Robert’s spelling).
The Wayside Log is a diary kept by Robert’s wife Alice, with parts written by her brother Edward (Ned) Woods, detailing their trek. The log is written from 17 April 1879 to 10 July 1879. The trip itself took them from mid-May to the end of June.
My husband worked through the details of the log and was able to plot their trip on a map.
This log is the individual writing and views of Alice and her brother. There are, of course, many stories from others not reflected here.
Please be aware that the language used is from the late nineteenth century and does not reflect current values and appropriate language.
If you would like to see a short video I made about this trip, it can be seen here.
The original document is now held in the British Columbia Archives reference code MS-2725.
The Log is divided into three sections as it was sent back to “civilization” for safe-keeping while they travelled.
WAY SIDE LOG VOLUME ONE
Page 1
[1] Way Side Log 1879
[2] Alice
[3] Thursday April 17
[4] Arrived from Metlakahtla at
[5] 2.30 am. Very quick passage but rather wet. found
[6] them all in bed. Robert took the two youngest
[7] children into bed to warm them. Ned got up and l
[8] light the stove and made some tea for us as we
[9] had eaten nothing since 3 o’clock of the day
[10] before. Commenced house cleaning with Ned’s help
[11] about 10 A.M. Found everything either dirty or
[12] out of its proper place. Had the house rather respect[-]
[13] able by evening. Robert spent the day building
[14] a house for storing foods from the steamer
[15] about 2 miles from this. He was not back till
[16] nearly 8 so we had scarcely finished dinner
[17] by 9. Was not in bed till about 12. Robert & Ned much later
Page 2
[1] April 18th Friday Edward
[2] There was a nice frost last night just enough to make
[3] the ground hard. Robert went off to the mill as soon as
[4] he was dressed. Mrs. T attended to the youngsters while Bob
[5] and I went off to milk. We (Robert, Alice and myself) had
[6] breakfast about 9 o’clock after breakfast Robert went off
[7] to see the sick &c and Alice & I did the house
[8] and put up 2 or 3 shelves. Lunch at ½ past 1. Robert
[9] went off then to this house he is building a did
[10] not get back to dinner until about ½ past 7.
[11] during that time I taught the children for one hour
[12] and then I took Dicky and Lillie for a ride on Sally
[13] on the saddle that Mr. Pemberton gave one its
[14] does very well the children like it and are not at all
[15] afraid.
Page 3
[1] April 19 Saturday Alice
[2] Baking starching ironing bathing children
[3] besides the usual amount of house work
[4] so was particularly tired before bed time.
[5] Robert & Ned winding up affairs in the
[6] store as Mr. Duncan is going to close it
[7] April 20 Sunday Edward
[8] Service this morning at 11 am I went with
[9] Robert & Alice to see a sick person after lunch.
[10] The day was beautifully warm until about 4 pm
[11] when it commenced to blow up. Service again
[12] at 7 pm. Mrs T did not go as she had the babies to see
[13] to.
[14] April 21 Monday Alice
[15] A very wet day. rain dripping through the roof
[16] in all directions. Spend my time mending clothes
Page 4
[1] Robert & Ned still at the store, sent most
[2] of the things to Metlakatla. Ned cooked the dinner.
[3] He will make a first-rate husband for some one
[4] some of these days. Robert spent the afternoon at the
[5] saw mill.
[6] April 22 Edward
[7] This morning we were to have been up at 76 and finished
[8] the store before breakfast but we did not get up until
[9] about 8. I got breakfast ready while Robert milked
[10] after breakfast we made a place to put the scow so
[11] as to be able to mind her but as soon as the tide came
[12] in it all by degrees floated off so we had to put 3 sticks
[13] under her so as to raise her off the sand about 6 in.
[14] I did that while Robert went over to the mill. after
[15] lunch we went at the store again and finished the
[16] furs. Afterwards we got out 2 of the calves and gave
Page 5
[1] them a lesson in packing as we want them to work
[2] on the trail. they did very well in the evening I did
[3] accounts while Robert was fixing a clock its is now
[4] ¼ to 1 and I do not know when he will be done.
[5] Mr T came down this morning from the river
[6] where he had been for service on Sunday
[7] April 23 Alice
[8] Robert still building the house for storing goods
[9] at Quilggedga. Ned ^went to^ the mill soon after
[10] breakfast. both came home for lunch.
[11] Robert off again and Ned took the children for
[12] school. I still find plenty to mend, service
[13] in the evening at 730 but I could not
[14] attend as Dick would not go to sleep in time.
[15] It has been very windy all day.
Page 6
[1] April 24 Edward
[2] Today being the anniversary of Mr & Mrs T’s wedding
[3] day we had intended going down to see the new
[4] house but it turned out too cold, so instead Mrs T
[5] went for a ride on Lotty and the children on Sally.
[6] Apr 25 Alice
[7] The whole village came down in a body to beg of
[8] us to alter our minds about going away, and after
[9] listening to all they had to say (there were 14
[10] speeches made) Mr T decided not to move just
[11] at present but to wait till the steamer brought
[12] back Mr Collison and Mr Sneath to Metlakatla
[13] and then to go there and have the whole matter
[14] talked over by the whole body of Missionaries and
[15] abide by their decisions and so the matter
[16] stands at present. Owing to Dickies crying I have
Page 7
[1] put rather more “wholes” in than was necessary
[2] cold windy and a little rain
[3] April 26 Edward
[4] Robert was to have started up the river so as to hold
[5] service on Sunday but as he did not start until about
[6] 3 o’clock so that I have time to make up my mind
[7] to go with him we had a lovely breeze and arrived at
[8] the Fishery at ½ past 6 left again in a small canoe and
[9] arrived at our stopping place at ¼ to 8. paddling from
[10] the time we left the Fishery against the tide.
[11] April 27 Alice
[12] Very lonely without Mr T and Ned. Robert and Alice
[13] are getting really useful. Bob looked after the horses
[14] and cows and did it well too. I could not go to
[15] the church in the morning as Dick was not asleep
[16] tried again in the afternoon to bring the 4 children
Page 8
[1] but had to take Lillie and Dick out as they
[2] tried to join in the singing and deliver a
[3] sermon themselves. but as Maggie Schult came
[4] down in the evening to look after the house
[5] I was able to attend the last service. Dick
[6] was not at all well either today or last night
[7] Monday 28 Edward
[8] We started to come down at about ½ past eight
[9] on the way I shot a seal the first I ever shot but did not
[10] get it as we got two or three sea gulls and a duck.
[11] arrived at Kincolith about ½ past 10. Found everybody out
[12] in the afternoon. Robert went over to the mill about some
[13] lumber. We had a beautiful Bridge down the river
[14] a very large raft of logs for the mill came in this evening.
[15] Robert Alice and I took a canoe and went down
[16] to see it a few drops of rain fell this afternoon
Page 9
[1] April 29 Alice
[2] Robert was over at the mill mending the flume
[3] till 4 o’clock P.M. Edward doing nothing but
[4] children’s school, I was mending and making
[5] clothes all day, sent a letter to Mrs C.
[6] Sally was obstinate and would not come
[7] in. Most of the villagers back from the
[8] fishing. Number of boxes ^of grease they have made^ varies from 2 to 10.
[9] Dick not quite well yet.
[10] April 30th Edward
[11] Robert went down to the house did not come home
[12] until late Alice was as usual mending, service at
[13] 8 pm. Blowing and raining a little all day.
[14] May 1st Alice
[15] Mr T at the mill beating out the saw teeth
[16] all day. Home at 8 o’clock for dinner.
Page 10
[1] mending and clothes and washing dishes never
[2] seem to come to an end in this house.
[3] Edward cleaned nearly all the guns of this
[4] establishment raining nearly all day and
[5] wind from the south.
[6] May 2nd Edward
[7] Mr T down at the house all day. Alice mending.
[8] I was teaching and then went over to the mill and
[9] mended the saw tempered a chisel and fixed the poker
[10] I put the stove pipe through the top of the chimney,
[11] in the evening Alice made bread. We have come
[12] to the conclusion that while we are here the day is
[13] a {bilk?}
[14] May 3 Alice
[15] Mr T at the house, I commenced a letter
[16] to mother, ^it was^ raining sufficiently to prevent the
Page 11
[1] children going out. so the letter did not
[2] progress much. I turned Ned out of the house
[3] while the bathing went on. He paid Mr S
[4] a visit — and I heard some of his opinions
[5] about different village matters. blowing very hard
[6] in the evening
[7] Sunday 4th Edward
[8] 3 services one at 11 one about 3 and one about
[9] 7 o’clock Robert took the morning and evening Mr. Thaith
[10] took the afternoon service. Mrs T went morning
[11] and evening I went to the three rather a cold damp day
[12] May 5 No steamer yet, Mr T at the mill.
[13] Ned mending a canoe, and I had my second
[14] ride I got a much better than before.
[15] I got a little rhubarb out of the garden
[16] it was very delicious
Page 12
[1] May 6th Edward
[2] We were all going down to see the house today
[3] when just as were were going to start Robert got a letter
[4] to say that the Franklin would not leave Victoria until
[5] the 8th so he has now decided to go up the
[6] river now without waiting for anything so I suppose
[7] we will not get any letters until we get to our new
[8] Home. We ^all^ went down to the new house and worked
[9] there finishing for an hour or so an then returned home
[10] at about 5 pm
[11] May 7
[12] Mr T was getting everything tidy
[13] at the mill preparatory to our going as he is
[14] going to close it. Ned and I packing up
[15] all day. In the forenoon all the principal women
[16] of the village to the number of 23 or 24 came
[17] in a body to tell me what their hearts had to say.
Page 13
[1] they seem very much down hearted about my
[2] going away, they were here nearly 2 hours.
[3] Service in the evening and a child’s baptism
[4] May 8th Thursday Edward
[5] Robert heard this morning that Mr. Collison
[6] had arrived at Metlakahtla so he has changed his mind
[7] and is going down tomorrow morning at about 4 am
[8] with the men from the village who are going to talk
[9] over their affairs before the committee so that every
[10] thing can be settled as to what every one is to do.
[11] About 4 pm we received letters &c from home
[12] and from Mr. Andrew. Mrs T had the pleasure of
[13] unpacking the boxes we packed yesterday.
[14] May 9th About ten of the principal men of the
[15] village started for Metlakahtla about 6 A.M.
[16] to have a big “waw waw” with Mr D. Mr C and Mr S.
Page 14
[1] Mr T went with them Mr. S. declined to go pretending
[2] to think it was a got up affair of Mr T’s.
[3] Ned was teaching children and mending canoes,
[4] I was needle working as usual, went to bed
[5] at the unusual time of 10 P.M. blowing hard
[6] all day till the evening so imagine Mr. T
[7] and party did not get far, we expect them
[8] back on Wednesday.
[9] May 10th Edward
[10] No sign of the steamer yet we do not know what to think
[11] of her. This morning we got up very late and of course had breakfast
[12] late after the house was done. Alice was mending and getting
[13] dinner ready until about ½ past 1 as we were to have an early
[14] dinner then she went off to see a sick woman I was at work
[15] getting the scow ready for the cows &c . after dinner Alice
[16] went on mending until it was time to bathe the children and
[17] put them to bed while I got water &c &c
Page 15
[1] May 11 Alice Three services as usual it was
[2] very warm till about 3 o’clock when it commenced
[3] to blow very hard
[4] May 12 I had my third ride but as Lotty was very
[5] frisky and kicked a good deal I look got off these.
[6] Edward took her but she kicked with him too
[7] May 13 We were looking out for Mr. T all day
[8] but there are no signs of him yet a canoe
[9] came from Metlakahtla which said they arrived there
[10] on Saturday. We brought a leg of bear
[11] May 14. Mr T and Mr Sneath arrived from
[12] Metlakatlah. It was decided that we should
[13] proceed inland as we had everything ready
[14] and that the Society should be told what the
[15] people of Kincolith say about it is to be
[16] left with them and the new bishop to decide
Page 16
[1] where we should be permanently. Mr. Shutt
[2] in the meanwhile remaining at Kincolith till
[3] we hear from the Society. Mr. Sneath reminds
[4] me of Vernon Spalding,
[5] April [sic] 15 Very busy packing all our heavy things
[6] to go by the Skeena till evening when we went out
[7] to see Mr Shutt Mr Sneath and some of the
[8] Indians ride bareback on Lotty came in about
[9] 8 o’clock got everything in the canoe as well
[10] as the {faig?} Mr T has sold the two young
[11] calves to a Tsimshean man so they went to
[12] Mr Sneath also went in the same canoe
[13] so they were pretty full.
[14] Friday 16 May Edward
[15] We were all very busy packing and getting every thing
[16] ready to start by the turn of the tide We had a great
Page 17
[1] bother getting Polly (one of the cows) on the scow but at last
[2] after getting wet up to the knees we got her on we then put
[3] the horses on and started them all off with hos man
[4] to take charge they left at about 730 P.M. of a lovely
[5] evening Alice and the children started off in a
[6] canoe at about 830 PM with one man and a boy
[7] and girl. Robert and I stopped behind to finish every
[8] thing off and left at 1030 PM in a smaller canoe
[9] with two men we went on for about 3 miles
[10] and then heard a shout or two on the other
[11] side of the river but as we saw no fire we did
[12] not go across we lit a lantern and held it up so that
[13] they could see where ^we^ were. shortly after as we heard no
[14] more shouting we camped and spent a miserable
[15] night I was trying to dry myself all the night
Page 18
[1] Saturday 17
[2] I spent the most wretched night I ever had last
[3] night. Our canoe started from Kincolith at 8 30 we went
[4] along very slowly on the left side of the river after getting
[5] Dick and Lilly to sleep I helped to paddle then we got
[6] on a little faster we kept looking out for the scow
[7] but as it was so dark we could see nothing of her at
[8] last we thought we heard ^the cowbell^ on the right side of the river
[9] so we shouted but received no answer we could not
[10] imagine what they could be doing on that side as
[11] it was about 4 miles out of their way so thought we
[12] must have been mistake as to the cow bell after
[13] going on a little further we heard it again we shouted
[14] again and an answer came back so we steered
[15] across calling every now and again so that we might
[16] not miss her at last after about 1 hour and ½ we
[17] got to her the man said the wind had blown them across
END OF VOLUME ONE
LOOSE PAGES
Page 1
[1] We went along for a few minutes by their side and
[2] then our Housman seeing a good camping place
[3] a short way ahead so we left them but in about
[4] ¼ of an hour we heard them shouting most terribly
[5] for us to come back as they were upsetting. We hurried
[6] back as fast as we could and found the scow with
[7] about 2 feet of water over her deck the animals
[8] in a perfect state of frenzy and two of them had fallen
[9] on the deck and could not get up. The men jumped
[10] from the scow to our canoe and we pushed off.
[11] I though she might slag in that position
[12] until we could get to the other side of the river
[13] where I was almost certain we could meet Mr T &
[14] Edward coming from Kincolith we saw a light on
[15] shore and thought they had camped we shouted
[16] as loud as we could the whole way across but
[17] heard no answer. When we got to the other side
[18] there was no fire and no signs of them (we found
[19] out today that the light we saw was their lantern).
[20] I got the men to put us out and our baggage
[21] and then to go back and do what they could
[22] to save the poor animals I gave them some knives
[23] to cut them loose after they had gone we lit a
[24] fire so that Mr T could see where we were and
[25] come in as he passed. I got the children to
Page 2
[1] sleep but with the excitement of everything I could
[2] do nothing but walk the beach and I kept
[3] calling every few minutes for fear the canoe
[4] might pass in the dark. Just about daylight the
[5] men came back and said there was no sign of either
[6] the animals or the scow to be seen anywhere they asked
[7] what they were to do so I sent them back to Kincolith
[8] to let Mr T know and after waiting about 2 hours
[9] in a terribly anxious state of mind the canoe came
[10] back with Mr Schutt and 3 more men from Kincolith.
[11] I asked them where was Mr T and all they could
[12] tell me was he had started at 10:30 the evening before
[13] and that they had come to look for him. I said i would
[14] go with them Mr S thought it would be better not
[15] but I left the children with the girl and I went
[16] with them after doing for about ¼ of a mile higher
[17] up the river we saw a fire we called to them
[18] and I can’t describe my thankfulness when I saw Edward
[19] come out from the bush. We told them of our
[20] disaster an stopped with them while the canoe
[21] went off to look for the animals of the scow.
[22] We came back in Mr S canoe to my camping
[23] place where we had breakfast but none of us were
[24] much inclined to eat anything just as we had
[25] finished another canoe from Kincolith called
[26] and reporting having seen a fire on the other side
[27] so we imagined they must have found something
[28] Mr T & Edward started off with them and in
Page 3
[1] about ½ of an hour a large canoe with Mrs Schult Maggie
[2] and a number of women came from Kincolith
[3] to cuddle with and comfort me. They stopped till
[4] a little after 11 o’clock When Ned came back and
[5] told us it was not quite as bad as we thought.
[6] They had found the scow about 2 miles from the
[7] place where we had left it going down. It must have
[8] drifted about 4 miles up and back again. 2 Daisy
[9] (one of the cows) 1 heifer and Lolly were dead. The
[10] others were all alive and looking none the worse for
[11] their fright. Dead and alive all were on the scow. It was
[12] bad enough but nothing like what we expected to hear.
[13] I though the little foal as it was not tied might
[14] have got off . I never though we would see any
[15] of the rest alive. Mrs Schult & party then said
[16] good bye and we all went over to the other
[17] side. We put up our camp and stopped all day
[18] Sunday Still in the same place Robert
[19] went to Kincolith to hold evening service
[20] he was not back till about 11 o’clock
[21] Monday Mr Schult and Maggie & Jessy and
[22] a large canoe load came over today
Page 4
[Note the scan for page 4 cut off the right hand side of the page]
[1] the first good bye and we {…}
[2] 10 o’clock 3 children 1 gir 3 men {…}
[3] in one canoe Mr T Bob 1 boy & {…}
[4] another smaller one to Ned & 2 {…}
[5] the scow. Mr Schutt’s canoe helped {…}
[6] in towing out the scow and after {…}
[7] for about 1 mile they went back to {…}
[8] we got on about 6 miles up {…}
[9] our canoe towing her all the {…}
[10] at a very muddy place where there {…}
[11] room to camp there was plenty {…}
[12] but the ground was so {…}
[13] that we had to camp on a rock {…}
[14] we might be able to start by {…}
[15] but it was. We started about 9 {…}
[16] about 8 miles we have far {…}
[17] a place which our flows at {…}
[18] we have just got something {…}
[19] Mr T Ned and the men are {…}
[20] the river to Mr. Croesdales {…}
[21] whatever provisions we are {…}
[22] I have been wishing such a {…}
[23] in this that it must do and {…}
[24] {…} I have brought {…}
END OF LOOSE PAGES
WAY SIDE LOG VOLUME TWO
Page 1
[1] Way Side Log Vol II
[2] May 21 Tuesday Wednesday
[3] Ned got up about 4 o’clock as Mr T had said last
[4] night that we must start as early as possible. He lit
[5] the fire then looked it his watch and found it was
[6] much earlier than he expected so got back to bed
[7] and did not wake until about 7 when we all got
[8] up. I woke up feeling sick on account of the smell. I
[9] think that a great deal to say it was we were stopping
[10] at one of the places where the Indians had made their
[11] grease a few weeks before. Philip wished to
[12] start for Kincolith immediately in the scow, so he started
[13] by himself as the second man said he wished to come
[14] to the head of navigation with us then Mr T sent the small
[15] canoe up the river about 3 miles in search of a larger
[16] canoe with crew as we were too much loaded in our canoe.
Page 2
[1] after waiting for about 3 hours they came back and
[2] said they could not find a canoe or men so we
[3] decided to take the small canoe. But what to do
[4] about Philip we did not know. We could not
[5] even find a canoe going down that we might
[6] send him as message so we decide that Mr T,
[7] Ned, 1 man, 1 boy and the animals should
[8] start through the bush and that the four children,
[9] the girl, 8 men and myself should start on the
[10] canoe we had came up in with so much
[11] of the baggage as we could carry and that
[12] the other 2 men should go down till they overtook the
[13] scow and tell Philip we could not spare
[14] him either the small canoe or a man then they
[15] were to come back take up all the goods we
[16] could not carry ant to come on up the river
Page 3
[1] about 8 miles where we all should meet by evening
[2] our canoe arrived about 4 o’clock PM. but there
[3] was no sign of Mr T & party we put up our tent lit a
[4] fire. cooked and waited and about 9 P.M. the other
[5] canoe came. they said they overtook the scow about
[6] half way down to Kincolith that they found a man
[7] willing to help Philip and they also found a man
[8] with a fair sized canoe willing to come up the river
[9] with us so they left their small canoe with the man’s
[10] wife and came up on to us. but there is no sign
[11] of Mr T yet. The man fired off a gun to let them know where we were.
[12] May 22 Wednesday Thursday. This morning immediately
[13] after breakfast the men started off in search of Mr T
[14] and took some food for them as they had taken
[15] nothing but biscuits. The girl and I spent the day wash
[16] and mending clothes. About 2 P.M. 1 man came back
[17] he said he had not intended to go all the way but
[18] to stay some where near and let us know if he could
Page 4
[1] hear anything about them. He went off 2 or 3 times during
[2] the day and kept shouting for them but got no answer
[3] about 8 P.M. another man came back and said they
[4] found the print of cows & horses feet also the remains
[5] of a fire where there was some bread & other which
[6] they must have got from Mr Green’s village and that
[7] the other 3 men had separated from him & they
[8] thought they heard shouting in the distance. he
[9] was quite done in poor fellow with wandering
[10] about all ^day^ having eaten nothing but 3 small fish
[11] in about and hour & half. The other 3 men came
[12] back and brought the joyful news of having seen
[13] them. but so tired that they did not care to eat
[14] the food I sent them. They are about 2 miles from
[15] this place but as there was plenty of food for them
[16] around and they were so tired they said they
[17] would stop another night and thought they have
[18] few blankets the men though that the brush is most
[19] terribly thick and that Ned’s sure the boy’s trousers
Page 5
[1] are torn to ribbons and that Ned says it is very hard
[2] work travelling and that have meat to eat. happily I had
[3] sent them some cooked bacon and some canned venison
[4] as well as tea sugar & bread of course they have
[5] plenty of milk. They sent me back half an can full.
[6] The mens names that are with us are George, Frederick,
[7] Stephen, Luke. Liggyuan the man with Mr T is Charles,
[8] the boy is Hedon and the girl that I have brought
[9] to help with the children is Gikdathl. Hopefully
[10] there are no musquitoes.
[11] May 23 Friday. I was up by sunrise and when I
[12] had the fire light Luke got up and chopped some
[13] more wood he then cooked & eat his won breakfast
[14] while I cooked a piece of bacon and put up some
[15] more food for Mr T & party, when the bacon
[16] was cooked he started to help them while I made
[17] more bread as I had sent away the last I had
[18] after more than an hour the others got up
Page 6
[1] and after breakfast & prayers they started off too
[2] on the search. About 12 o’clock we heard a cooee
[3] then another an they all came in sight. They
[4] left the cattle some where back feeding and
[5] left Liggyuan minding them. Mr T & Ned
[6] were in very good spirits but they say it is very
[7] heavy travelling. Luke got up to them just as they
[8] had finished their breakfast so they brought
[9] back the food I sent them. I made some tea
[10] and after we had finished we decided on
[11] a place about 7 miles on where we are to
[12] meet tomorrow evening. They then started off again
[13] and when we had packed our canoes we
[14] started. We stopped at a wretched place
[15] abounding with musquitoes for the night.
[16] May 24 Saturday. Lillie’s birthday.
[17] Lillie & Dick are perfect frights with musquitoe
Page 7
[1] bites, besides that Dick’s face is very much burned
[2] with the sun. We started this morning about
[3] 9 o’clock and after travelling about 3 hours we
[4] heard a gun and saw a smoke which we
[5] imagined was Mr T camping place. I tried
[6] to persuade the men to go to it but they
[7] said the river was too swift. We stopped about
[8] a mile from it and after we had stopped
[9] about an hour Mr. T and Ned & Stephen came
[10] up looking most terribly done up and tired.
[11] They had been walking since early morning to
[12] meet us and had got a long way out of
[13] their way all because of the stupidity of our men
[14] who did not keep to the arrangement that had
[15] been maid the day before. as Sally had foaled
Page 8
[1] the night before they could not move the animal
[2] so they were left on a hill with Charles to look
[3] after them, while Mr T and Ned came down to
[4] get more food. They are so far back in the bush
[5] that we won’t be able to spend tomorrow together.
[6] After getting a meal and taking blankets and
[7] food to last four day. they made the arrangements
[8] that our two canoes are to go on some
[9] 14 miles farther to the first village then
[10] we are to unload and stop there and
[11] that one canoe and three men are to come
[12] back with food for them, and meet them
[13] somewhere, they think they will be a week
[14] getting to the first village. I ^hope we will come by^ 2 days.
[15] May 25. We passed the Sunday as quiet
[16] and profitably as we could. Frederick acted
Page 9
[1] as spokesman but it was most lonely. The
[2] river has gone down a good deal today
[3] May 26 Monday We started about 9 am and
[4] though we had a head wind we got in sight
[5] of the first village before sunset. We stopped for
[6] about and hour of at noon for lunch. It was
[7] a most terribly hot day. Lillie was most troublesome.
[8] May 27 Tuesday. The 3 men started off about
[9] 10 am to help Mr T and to bring him food
[10] the river has been receding all day the rapids
[11] are so thigh no canoe could possibly pass thru
[12] May 28 Wednesday About 6 o’clock this evening
[13] the canoe came back with the men and Ned.
[14] Mr. T is about 9 miles lower down on the other
[15] side of the river with the animals. The arrangements
[16] are that we are to move camp to the other side
Page 10
[1] of the river about ¼ of a mile beyond the
[2] village. That all the men are to go back to Kincolith
[3] but 3. Two of which are to stay with Mr T
[4] and 1 with me. That we are to leave our
[5] canoe below the rapids and pack the {…}
[6] across. Then when the rivers goes down sufficiently
[7] we are to get a crew in the village and
[8] start off again in the meantime Ned and
[9] Stephen are to go back to Mr. T and we
[10] hope they will be up as far as our camp by
[11] Saturday. Ned and I stopped up talking
[12] after every one else was asleep. It was
[13] such a comfort to have someone to talk
[14] to. Thursday 29 Started about 10 A.M and
[15] got to the village in about an hour.
[16] Where I found a man who knows the
Page 11
[1] trails about here. I have agreed with him to go
[2] down with them to help Mr T. The men went back
[3] to the village after carrying our things across to a
[4] feast at one of the Chief’s house and about
[5] 4 o’clock they and Ned started to go back to
[6] {…} The rest of the day was spent very quietly by us.
[7] Friday 30 About 5 o’clock this afternoon 3 of the
[8] men came back to us bringing us Sally’s foal
[9] which was completely done up what with the
[10] rough travelling and little food and fitting
[11] for it [remainder of line unreadable]
[12] It can barely move and when it lies down
[13] it cannot get up by itself. They say Mr T will be
[14] here by 6 o’clock in the evening.
Page 12
[1] Saturday 31 The three men started off this morning
[2] to help Mr T and about noon they all arrived
[3] here. The animals look very well. It is the
[4] first time we have seen them since they
[5] commenced their walk. It is so nice to
[6] have Mr T & Ned with us. The men are very
[7] anxious to stop march and go back so we
[8] decided to let them ^except Liggyuan who is Kitishean^ and get a crew at
[9] this village. We never thought of sending
[10] a letter down by them till after they
[11] had gone. In the evening Mr. T and Ned
[12] took a walk to the village to arrange what
[13] our crew and about service tomorrow.
[14] everything was settled most satisfactory.
[15] the river has been going down very
[16] much all day.
Page 13
[1] June ^Sunday^ 1 About 11 A.M. Mr. T Ned Robert Alice
[2] Liggyuan Zedow & Gihdathl started off to the village
[3] to have service and left me the 2 babies and
[4] goods & chattels to look after. After they cam back
[5] we had lunch and after that taught a
[6] Nishka hymn to 4 girls who came down to
[7] see us. Then we left all the children but
[8] Robert with Gihdathl while we took a walk
[9] in the evening. we had service again at
[10] which I attended as I got the small children to sleep .
[11] The river has been rising very much all day
[12] June 2 Monday Mr T Ned and Liggyuan and the
[13] animals started
[14] June 4 Head of Navigation we are past
[15] starting. the {Inch?} will take this back No time
[16] to fill up the two last day. Sally foal
Page 14
[1] died last night. Everything else all right.
[2] Good bye all. We are off on the tramp
END OF VOLUME TWO
WAY SIDE LOG VOLUME THREE
Page 1
[1] Way Side Log Vol III
[2] June 4
[3] Left Kitlacdamish about 11 AM. Mr T, Ned &
[4] Liggyuan with the animals. The four children Gihdathl
[5] Zedow and myself in the canoe with four men
[6] belonging to the village. we only took one canoe as
[7] the little foal died the evening before. Mr T & party
[8] arrived first but of course of the wrong side of
[9] the river. So after we landed and got our goods
[10] out the men went back for them. it was pouring
[11] rain all the time we lighted a large fire and cooked
Page 2
[1] some food while they towed over the animals one by one
[2] after about 2 hours work they were all landed in
[3] safety and Mr T & Ned came to my fire and had
[4] something to eat. the men were paid their wages and they
[5] immediately went back taking the II vol of the Log.
[6] after they left Mr. T & Ned shoed Sally and then gave
[7] her her pack when she quietly lay down and kicked
[8] up her heels as Ned says to show her new shoe,
[9] then she got up but did not seem to approve
[10] of her pack. but after walking her up and down
[11] a few times she was all right then we put the
[12] children on Pompey the young bullock, but the little
Page 3
[1] seat was not made to fit his back and they kept
[2] slipping off. so they were taken off him and put
[3] on Polly but that was much worse. she nearly went wild
[4] so they tried her with a few blankets she rushed in
[5] all directions but after a few trials with her she went
[6] very well, they then tried Victor (the Bull Mr. Pemberton
[7] gave us) with a few blankets and after a little time he
[8] went all right and when all that was over we decided
[9] it was rather late, to stop where we were for the
[10] night and after our supper we decided that Gikdathl
Page 4
[1] should take her own things and Dick and Zedow
[2] take Lillie an age and a saucepan. Then we had prayers
[3] and all went to bed
[4] Thursday June 5 Started about 9 A.M. after prayers & breakfast
[5] and got on wonderfully well considering it was the first
[6] time any of the animals had packed except Sally.
[7] The only trouble with them was that they would go too
[8] close to trees and their bundles would come off of course.
[9] Then there was a general halt and they had to be tied
[10] up again. The children did not get on as well as I
[11] expected. Zedow had his blanket and a coat as well
[12] as Lillie and he could scarcely get on and Gikdalhl
Page 5
[1] found that Dick was too much chucketed crushed to be
[2] happy when I caught up to him he was crying as if
[3] his heart would break so I took him and carried him for
[4] about one mile, part of the time in my arms and the rest
[5] on my back up to the place where we stopped for lunch.
[6] It was there Mr T’s trail which he made a few years ago
[7] ended. after lunch we got on better they put Gikdalhl’s &
[8] Zedow’s blankets not the animals and they went on ahead
[9] with Alice. and I stopped behind to help with Sally.
[10] we found after some time that there were so many
[11] fallen trees to cut away that it was better for
[12] Ned to go on ahead with the saw and the axe and
[13] a gun and clear the way while I led Sally and Mr T
[14] Robert and Liggyuan brought on the other 3. the children
Page 6
[1] found a very nice camping ground with plenty of grass
[2] and water about 8 miles from where we started from ^in^ the
[3] morning. The place was swarming with mosquitoes and
[4] sand flies but after we had been there about half an hour
[5] they all disappeared. it was about 8 P.M when we reached
[6] it. I unpacked Sally by myself and as we were all
[7] very tired we soon went to bed
[8] Friday June 6 We were so tired from yesterday’s
[9] travelling that we got up very late and did not start
[10] till 12 o’clock. and just as were were starting a man came
[11] up from Kitlactamish to say they they were in great trouble
[12] as some white men had taken some of their ground and
Page 7
[1] they did not know what to it. It had been going on for more
[2] than a year. they had some talk with Mr T about
[3] it the night we stopped there but neither of the white
[4] men were there. but since we had left one of them
[5] had come back. Mr. T thought at first that it would be better
[6] to go back to them but afterwards decided to write a letter to
[7] the white man. After an hour’s stopping we went on. the animals
[8] went very much better than yesterday their packs only came
[9] off 3 or 4 times and there were fewer fallen trees we
[10] reach the place where we spent the Sunday when Lillie
[11] (This is Aunt Lillie)
[12] was with us by evening.
[13] Saturday June 7 We are getting ^into^ a more regular way
[14] of doing things now. The first thing after we are dressed
[15] is the children’s breakfast then our own then while Gikdalhl
Page 8
[1] is washing the cups the animals are brought up and
[2] saddled then prayers after that I see that the
[3] children are comfortable and start them off.
[4] While the packs are being put on we tell Gikdathl
[5] that after going a reasonable length of time she
[6] is to look out for water and a good feeding
[7] place. then the 5 of them start off then when the
[8] packs are all on Ned goes first to clear the way.
[9] I lead Sally Robert follows with Polly. Mr. T with
[10] Pompey and Lyggyuan with Victor. Those two carry
[11] their own packs as well we had rather hard
[12] travelling up till lunch time but after that we
Page 9
[1] would go on till 7. but about 6 o’clock after getting
[2] down a very steep place Sally was trying to cross
[3] a rather awkward stream. ^She^ stepped on one of her shoes
[4] and fell, we had to take off her pack and we found
[5] her shoe had come off so we had to stop. Ned and I were
[6] particularly pleased it was very well we did stop because
[7] just in front of us was such as steep hill to go down
[8] and a steeper to go up That when we do start
[9] on Monday we will have to pack the goods ourselves
[10] and let the animals go free. after dinner Mr T & Ned
[11] put on the shoe and then went on to try and get
[12] a salmon in a salmon house close by they got two
[13] which we were very glad to see as we were very
[14] ———— our food is going down rapidly. after giving
[15] the children a good wash all round I made bread
Page 10
[1] and we all went to bed after prayers
[2] Sunday June 8 We spent the day very quietly had
[3] 2 services. We had 3 strangers in the morning but
[4] only ourselves at evening. we took some nice quiet
[5] strolls during the day. The mosquitoes were most
[6] troublesome during the day
[7] Monday June 9 I don’t suppose one of us had an
[8] hour’s good sleep last night with the mosquitoes.
[9] Lillie & Dick were very restless Lyggyuan Gikdathl
[10] and Zedow carried on all the things while Mr T
[11] and Ned led the animals the hill was the
[12] steepest we have passed as yet after starting off
[13] again we were only able to go about
Page 11
[1] ¼ of a mile when we came to another short but very
[2] steep place where they had to make a way down.
[3] I lay on a rock on the edge of Naas River which
[4] was very breezy and therefore free from mosquitoes.
[5] about ½ past 5 P.M. we reached a very steep gully
[6] where it was quite impossible to bring the animals.
[7] They had to make a trail round it which took us
[8] about ½ a mile out of our way but when we got to
[9] the other side we found a very nice camping ground
[10] with two salmon houses. in one of which we had
[11] prayers before going to bed
[12] June 10 Tuesday Started off at about the usual time
[13] Ned’s writing
Page 12
[1] and arrived without much difficulty at the bridge just
[2] as it commenced to rain after lunch Robert Bob
[3] and one man and myself started to make a trail to take
[4] the animals round as they could not cross the bridge.
[5] The bridge is made of poles about 6 in through at the
[6] butt and tapering to about 3 in it is about 90 ft long
[7] and about 3 ft wide there are 4 lengths of poles The two lengths
[8] at each end are about 25 to 30 ft long the two middle ones
[9] are from 15 to 20 ft long tied together by withes of various kinds
[10] and also lashed together by cross pieces about 10 ft apart.
Page 13
[1] The sides are made by 4 trees two at each side bent over to
[2] a slight curve and sticks tied up and down from them to the
[3] bridge. The ends of the sticks on each end of the bridge are
[4] held together by lots of stones and ticks piled up on their ends.
[5] I carried to foal over the bridge 2 times as we thought
[6] we could get the animals over but did not
[7] Wednesday 11th Edward
[8] We have not written this every day as we were too tired
[9] & had too much to do. When we came to camp of an
[10] evening. This morning after breakfast Robert and I went
[11] up the right Bank of the river and sent Liggyuan
[12] up the other side to get the rope and the the animals on.
Page 14
[1] First we took Pompey then Victor which I am very sorry
[2] was drowned although it was not more than 5 minutes
[3] in the water is was not quite dead when it came
[4] to land so as we saw it could not live we cut its
[5] throat to save its life as Katie would say. We then took
[6] Polly over she came all right. it was then about 12
[7] o’clock so we had lunch and after lunch I carried the
[8] foal over once more and then we swam Sally over.
[9] She came ^across^ over the best ^of all^. we did not start that day
[10] as it was too late Mrs T was busy as usual mending
[11] & washing We sent Liggyuan back to a salmon house
[12] to tell the people to come and get some fresh beef.
Page 15
[1] about 8 or 10 came and took all that we did not
[2] want. we took on a boy name Amlad who is
[3] to pack instead of Victor
[4] Thursday 12th
[5] We started at about ½ past 9 we had to get the things
[6] packed up a hill just at the start but after that we
[7] had a pretty fair trail we camped where there was
[8] lots of wood and strawberries. the first we have seen.
[9] we travelled about 12 miles and came in very tired.
[10] Friday 13
[11] After travelling about 1 ½ miles we came to a
[12] salmon house where we were invited to a
Page 16
[1] feast which of course we had to accept we
[2] had salmon and grease then Bear meat then
[3] Ish which is a sort of berry beaten up to a froth
[4] we left there about 2. we camped at a small
[5] stream coming from a lake, no mosquitoes. Sally’s
[6] shoe came off so we had to put one on.
[7] Liggyuan shot a grouse. I am writing in the
[8] dark so can not say whether I am writing on
[9] the lines or not
[10] Saturday 14th We had a very rough day’s travel.
[11] through a pass in the mountains we kept mounting
[12] higher & higher till at — last foot sore & weary we
[13] reached a lake where we camped, and wonderful
[14] to relate we had not one mosquito
Page 17
[1] Sunday 15th Edward
[2] We spent a very quiet Sunday in the afternoon Alice
[3] Robert & Bob and I went for a walk along the trails
[4] about 2 miles. We got back about 4 P.M about 5
[5] we thought we had better look after Sally. When we
[6] found she had gone back on the trails about 5 miles
[7] so that we had to go down and up the mountain
[8] that we had come up yesterday, while we were away.
[9] Mr. T had a good sleep
[10] Alice
[11] Monday 15 Sally had two mishaps. She first was
[12] crossing some fallen trees when she slipped and could
[13] not get up without her pack being taken off. She got out
Page 18
[1] all right but when we came to camp we found she
[2] had lost one of her shoes. We camped by another
[3] mountain lake where there were only a few mosquitoes.
[4] Tuesday 17 Edward
[5] Soon after we started we can to a a very steep mountain
[6] we had to take the packs all off and bring the animals down
[7] without anything on them. Just as we stopped for lunch
[8] by a stream in {…} little over she slipped in and
[9] could scarcely get out. arrived at the Kishguicks River
[10] In a beautiful sandy {…} place have ever seen
[11] arrived at this bridge about 7 P.M.
[12] Wednesday 18 Ned and Mr T got a rope across
[13] the river a little higher lower down than the bridge to swim
Page 19
[1] the animals across but Pompey was nearly drowned
[2] owing to his own foolishness. Polly swam well.
[3] Ned carried the foal across the bridge and when
[4] Sally saw it at the far side she swam across
[5] without the least bit of trouble. As the river divides
[6] in two and the bridge is over one half we had about
[7] 3/4 of a mile inland to cross the other half. The bridge
[8] is like the first we saw but longer & narrower.
[9] I felt more safe on it as it was tied with telegraph
[10] wire. Robert and Ned then tied a rope to a high
[11] tree on one side and a stump on the other side of
[12] the river and slung all the baggage across while Gikdathl
[13] and the three small children and myself went
[14] the 3/4 of a mile inland. As it was pouring wet we got
Page 20
[1] soaked. They had not all the things across which we
[2] got to the far side so we lit a fire and dried
[3] ourselves. By the time they had every thing over
[4] it was time for lunch. But as I was feeling very
[5] miserable Mr T gave me a dose of medicine
[6] after lunch we started off and got on about 7 miles
[7] before we stopped for the night. We forgot to
[8] say we sent Liggyuan to the forks last night
[9] for food as we are out of nearly everything
[10] Thursday 19 Edward
[11] Alice is worse today but she say she would try and get on as we are
[12] so short of food. she out put about 2 miles and could go
[13] no further so we put her on Sally and made about 6 miles before
[14] we stopped by a lake just as its come on to rain so that we did
[15] not go on this afternoon
Page 21
[1] Alice
[2] Friday 20 We stopped till after lunch hoping I would feel
[3] better then I started off first I was just able to drag myself
[4] on about 4 miles the last with Mr T’s help. We
[5] reached a nice place where we put up. There were a good
[6] many mosquitoes. I felt very ill. Lyggyuan came back with the
[7] food.
[8] Saturday 21st Edward
[9] Alice was so unwell that she could not work. Robert Bob and I
[10] went back about 2 miles to a lake to fish we got 2 or 3 trout. Just
[11] as we were thinking of starting home it came on to rain so hard
[12] that we got wet through before we got home. found Mrs T
[13] about the same if not worse
[14] Alice
[15] Sunday 22 After we all were in bed a man from
[16] the Forks with letters. Mrs. Hankin brought them up.
[17] she said Andrew who is in charge of our canoe
[18] gave them to her he has left half the goods half
[19] way up the Skeena and had gone back for the
[20] other half. we were both delighted and surprised
Page 22
[1] to get the letters. They were written on May 12th I felt
[2] so ill that I was unable to move about
[3] Monday 25 Edward
[4] Lyggyuan and I carried Mrs T for about 8 miles
[5] on a Bear skin between two poles. it was not at all
[6] easy work over the rough trail. she walked up the
[7] hill as we could not possibly carry her up. we camped
[8] in the home of mosquitoes. we met a man that had
[9] come to meet us with potatoes and salmon which
[10] were very acceptable.
[11] Alice
[12] Tuesday 24 Liggyuan was sent again to the Forks for
[13] food. I rode all day on Sally I felt better but far
[14] from well. we travelled about 16 10 miles very flat country
[15] everyone but myself enjoyed strawberries all day.
[16] I was not allowed to taste one.
Page 23
[1] Edward
[2] We started early and travelled 16 miles at lunch time Giksalht
[3] caught a small rabbit about two days old about two
[4] miles back from where we camped. we crossed a small stream
[5] and a very nice place for a farm I have given it the name of
[6] Kishe Kishe Kickbyucka. Met Lyggyuan just as we are going to camp.
[7] he brought letters dated June 1st.
[8] Thursday We didn’t start till about 12 o’clock as we were
[9] washing and tidying all the children. I rode Sally.
[10] A chief came out to meet us we reached the place
[11] where most of the village have a weir in about 2 hours
[12] and arrived in the village in about one hour afterwards.
[13] They pointed out a grassy point where we could put
[14] up our tent in the evening as Sally was roaming around
[15] she was surrounded by dogs. She kicked one and
[16] broke its leg. the owner of which wished to get up
[17] a quarrel about it but he got no sympathy from
Page 24
[1] anyone he was in such a passion. We had plenty
[2] of mosquitoes.
[3] by Edward
[4] Robert and I started (after moving the camp) for the
[5] Forks. We got there about ½ past 10 found Mrs H and Mr H
[6] well and very kind we had dinner with them and after
[7] doing a little business and looking over Roberts things
[8] we left there in a shower of rain and arrived home
[9] at about ½ past 7 P.M. Met Mr. Lambly at the Forks.
[10] Saturday Alice Spent the day talking to the people in
[11] the morning finding out where they thought we ought
[12] to settle after the talk. Mr T & Ned travelled all round
[13] in every direction to see the country. they travelled
[14] about 20 men had more talk when they came
[15] back. It is nearly settled that we go to the other side
[16] of the river. I felt much worse today I suppose I caught
[17] a cold yesterday in the rain.
Page 25
[1] June
[2] Sunday 29 Edward
[3] Service in the village at about 12. there are {…} {…}
[4] so we did and [illegible]
[5] {…} we went out to the {…} where there
[6] was a more {…} service there were over 50 at it.
[7] Monday 30 Mr T intended to start for the Forks early but
[8] before he could go some 25 or 30 men came down to have
[9] another talk there was a difficulty in their minds about
[10] getting logs after letting them talk for some time Mr T asked
[11] them did they wish us to stop with them or not the young
[12] men said they did but the old ones think they would have
[13] to give up too much of their own ways so it is decided
[14] that we go and find another tribe who do want us
[15] when that was settled we had lunch then Mr T and
[16] 7 men started for the Forks They got back about
[17] 9 o’clock with plenty of provisions a plough
[18] grindstone and a few more necessary things
Page 26
[1] besides seeds. there is no sign of our canoe
[2] we are to start for a new place tomorrow
[3] July 1st Started about 9 o’clock I rode Sally
[4] we went back about 6 miles to the place
[5] where Ned called Kisshy Kishy Kishipicks it
[6] is a lovely place. Some ten men came
[7] with us to carry the goods and to build the
[8] house. The first thing they did after getting
[9] a meal was to get some logs to put under
[10] our tent so as to make it higher they raised
[11] it about 2 ½ feet.
[12] July 2 Wednesday Edward
[13] {…} Sally to the plough today but she would
[14] not work at all. It was too heavy for her all alone
[15] we are thinking of getting a horse from the trains of
[16] settlers that are on their way through
Page 27
[1] July 3 Thursday
[2] We were all making a {…} today. The men
[3] all getting logs for the house. about 5 o’clock we heard
[4] that the cattle train was about 1 mile from us
[5] so Robert and I went back and bought a horse
[6] for {…} we brought him back with us and
[7] {…} it as well. we have also bought a bull &
[8] heifer for {…}
[9] The cattle rested today they had a great
[10] deal [remainder of sentence illegible]
[11] [line not legible]
[12] [line not legible]
[13] Friday 4 Ned and Mr T were ploughing with the
[14] new horse I was washing clothes the children
Page 28
[1] were minding one another and Gikdalthl &
[2] Zedow were taking the roots out of the ground
[3] for the garden. In the evening we put in the
[4] seeds we got from Mr. Hankin. The men
[5] have finished putting in a large bag of
[6] potatoes
[7] Saturday 5 Mr T & Ned were hauling logs
[8] with the new horse. the men were
[9] getting the logs and bringing them to the edge
[10] of the wood it was a very hot day
[11] Sunday 6th Mr T Alice Gikdathl and myself
[12] went to the large salmon house about 5 miles
[13] away where most of the people are now living
[14] to have service it was extremely warm
[15] and my feet very very sore so we walked
Page 29
[much of this page is not legible]
[1] very slowly It was much worse coming back
[2] I could scarcely walk.
[3] Monday 7
[4] Mr T wen down to the Forks {…}
[5] of Food I was putting {…} house as {…}
[6] evening took {…}
[7] to meet {…}
[8] 10 o’clock
[9] Tuesday 8 July
[10] {…}
[11] house {…} & get {…}
[12] Wednesday 9 Ed.
[13] We worked all day and commenced
[14] our house. We have logs down
[15] Thurs. 10 {…}
[16] {…} around
[17] {…}
END OF VOLUME 3
